The Leona journal
Guides and stories from East Africa
Practical advice for planning your trip, written by the team in Karen, Nairobi.
Featured · Wildlife
The Great Migration: when to go for river crossings, calving and quiet
The herds never stop moving, but they follow a rhythm. Here is what happens in the Serengeti and the Maasai Mara through the year, and how to time your visit.
26 September 2026 5 min read
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Entry & health
Kenya’s eTA explained: what to apply for before your safari
Kenya now asks visitors to hold an approved electronic travel authorisation before they fly. Here is who needs one, what you will need to apply, and how far ahead to do it.
26 September 2026 4 min read
Costs
Maasai Mara park fees in 2026: what changed in July and how to budget
The reserve’s daily fee for non-resident adults doubled on 1 July 2026. Here is what you will pay, how tickets work and where the savings are.
26 September 2026 4 min read
Beach
Zanzibar after safari: when to go and how to combine the two
Bush to beach is the classic East African pairing. Here is the best season for Zanzibar, what to expect month by month, and how to add it to a Kenya or Tanzania safari.
26 September 2026 4 min read
Wildlife
Gorilla trekking in Rwanda: permits, age limits and what to expect
A single hour with a mountain gorilla family is one of the great wildlife experiences. Here is what the permit covers, who can go and how to plan.
26 September 2026 4 min read
Advice
How to tip on safari in Kenya: guides, camp staff and restaurants
Tipping is discretionary but expected, and the amounts are not obvious. Here is a practical guide to who to tip, how much and how to hand it over.
26 September 2026 3 min read
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